Teaching the Recall

By Vickie Buchanan

The simple way to teach a recall............
Use food treats (if the dog is food-motivated) to reward the dog for coming when called. Start easy when the dog has nothing better to do  then progress to when it is mildly interested in something else. If the dog comes when you call it away from something interesting, give it the treat and a bit of praise and then, as part of the reward, LET IT GO BACK TO WHAT IT WAS DOING. We tend to often call our dogs away from good stuff and then we don't let them go back. This constitutes punishment for coming when called. Gradually progress to calling the dog away from more interesting distractions, as it shows that it will come when you call it. An important part of this is to praise all the while the dog is moving toward you. If you must yell at your dog for not coming when called, make sure that yelling turns to praise the moment the dog is moving in your direction. Make the rewards for coming on command as varied as you can think of. Sometimes play, sometimes a treat, sometimes dinner time. (Carry it in your pocket in a big zip lock and triumphantly dump it on the ground after a particularly impressive recall. Don't let him know you have it until the big moment). Gradually work up to being able to call the dog out of a doggy play group.

Now for the long version..... This is from my puppy class manual. I spend 5 weeks of puppy class lessons on the recall. To most people, it's the most important thing they want to teach their puppy. I admit that many don't bother going through all the steps to teach this. They just get far enough so the dog comes almost all the time. But if you want to teach a really thorough recall, this is one way to do it.

The first 90% of teaching a reliable recall takes 90% of the time. The last 10% of teaching process (the proofing) takes the other 90% of the time.

--------------------------------------

Recall, Come,  "FRONT"

Coming when called is probably the most important lesson you can teach your dog.  It is also one of the more difficult.  The dog needs to be willing to leave something interesting in order to come to you even when you have no way of enforcing it.  In order to get this kind of obedience you need to proceed very carefully and deliberately.

It's important to complete each recall step until your dog is performing reliably.  Don't try to push onto the next step until your dog is ready, or you can end up with a dog that usually comes (not good enough), or comes unless he has something better to do.

We will be using a different command than the COME or HERE that you're probably used to.  This is to get around any bad habits the puppy may have already acquired regarding the recall.  It will also allow you to still use the word you are used to for calling your dog when not training.  Don't use the recall word FRONT for anything but training for now.

WHY TEACH A RELIABLE RECALL?

A dog that will come when called can often be allowed the freedom of being off leash, more fun for both of you.  Also, the recall can easily save your dog's life.  Many dogs are killed by cars when a reliable recall could have saved them.

Recall do's and don'ts

It is terribly easy to teach your puppy not to come to you.   All you have to do is get angry at him, call him over to you, and then discipline him. It won't take him long to learn that when you call, it's best to stay away.

--------------------------------------

Week One

1.  Begin by calling the pup in a distinct, commanding, but happy tone of voice, just before feeding.  If you can whistle, do this before calling him.  Praise him lavishly while he approaches, then give him his meal.

2.  For the first couple of days, only call him to you in this way at feeding times.  Remember to get into the habit of praising while he's coming.  Don't wait until he gets to you.

3.  After he responds immediately on one command, begin calling him to you at times other than feeding.  Praise him while he's coming, and immediately give him a food reward while petting him when he arrives.  Don't show him the food beforehand.

4.  During the first week, only call him when you're sure he'll respond, and only do so indoors.  (Don't call if he's preoccupied or distracted by something else.)

5.  By the end of the first week, he should come to you each time he's called with a single command.  If not, you'll have to continue working with him before going on.

Note:

Many puppies learn to come when called quickly and easily when they are between 2 and 6 months old. During this time your pup is a little insecure about the great big world.

When your pup reaches his "teens", between 6 and eighteen months, he becomes more adventurous, more secure, and more rebellious (just like human teens). This is when an imperfect recall breaks down. One day you may call your previously cooperative puppy only to see him look over his shoulder at you and run the other way, or he may pretend he never heard you.

If you teach the recall very thoroughly the first time you may avoid the situation completely, but if this does happen, start the recall exercise over from scratch and do a quick re-training. It won't take as long the second time. Remember to keep it positive, even when you know he is deliberately disobeying.

The rebellious phase will pass, and you'll have your cooperative dog back again before long.

--------------------------------------

Recall-Week 2

1.  Continue to work with your puppy inside using the routine established during the first week, except try calling him to FRONT when he's distracted.  If he doesn't respond immediately, go over to him, get his attention by clapping your hands or showing him the treat, and call again while backing up, making sure he receives praise and a food reward when he responds.

2.  Buy 50 feet of 1/8" braided nylon cord and a small metal snap. 

3.  Cut off ten feet of line and fasten a snap to one end.  Tie a loop in the other end.  Use a flame to singe the ends to prevent unraveling.

4.  Whenever you take the pup outside, have him on a leash or the nylon line.  DO NOT ALLOW HIM TO RUN FREE IN AN OPEN AREA UNTIL HE'S FULLY TRAINED.

5.  Only call the dog when he's on the nylon line or indoors.

6.  Start by briskly walking away from the pup holding the line.  Call him once, using the same command and tone of voice used during week one.

7.  Begin to praise as soon as the pup starts coming to you.  Don't wait till he gets to you.  Drop down on one knee and continue to praise and encourage him all the way in.  Give him a treat when he arrives.

8.  If the pup hesitates after you give him the first command, use plenty of praise in conjunction with a firm tug on the line to encourage him in. Don't reel him in like a fish!

9.  Repeat this only three times in one walk.

10. By the end of the second week, the pup should be following you all around your yard.

--------------------------------------

Recall-Week 3

Continue to work the RECALL on the 10 foot line just like last week, but now you will practice in different locations to teach your puppy to come to you even in distracting conditions.

Work on the RECALL in a new location every day. Teach your puppy to respond on the light line in all the places you'll later want him to respond off leash - beaches, parks, your property, and neighborhood.

Remember, the verbal command to FRONT is only given once, and then praise is used throughout the puppy's return. Be sure to have a special treat and lots of praise for him when he gets to you.

--------------------------------------

Recall-Week 4

Tie a snap on one end of the remaining 40 feet of nylon cord.  Don't tie a loop in the other end.  You will not be holding on to the long line. The puppy will be dragging it.

This will be the same as your practice with the 10 foot line, but now the pup has a greater sense of freedom.  Take the pup outside and practice recalls in lots of different locations.  If your pup doesn't came immediately when you call, step on the line and, if necessary, pick up the line and give the puppy a pop to remind him to come when called.

Things to remember:

*   Stay near the line so you can step on it to prevent your pup from getting away if he decides to take off.

*   Call the puppy when he is no more than 30 feet away.  Don't risk running out of rope.

*   Use plenty of good distractions.  Walk with your pup toward the distraction, and call the dog as he is moving away from you.

*   Let the dog run around and play between recalls, but call him before he gets to the end of the line.

*   Be sure to use lots of praise as he is coming toward you and treats when he gets there.

--------------------------------------

Recall-Week 5-8

Step 1  Continue to proof the recall in lots of new and distracting situations with the pup dragging the long line.  Do not move on to the next step until your dog is coming to you consistently and eagerly every time without your having to step on the line.

Step 2  Instead of offering a food reward every time, gradually begin to eliminate it on a random basis, but continue to use lots of praise and petting every time he responds.  Continue to use a food or toy treat at least every third time he comes.  You should occasionally reward your dog with food for coming when called for the rest of his life.

Step 3  Begin cutting back the line.   Cut off 1-3 feet of rope each day as long as your dog continues coming well.   Remove the line gradually by taking off small sections over the next three weeks.   By the end of the three weeks, the line should be only about 6 inches long and your pup should still be coming immediately when called.  Go slowly, and don't hesitate to back up with another 50 ft. line if you run into difficulty.

As your pup grows older, he may sometimes become rusty.   Don't fall into the trap of giving multiple commands.  As soon as you detect a slower
response, get out another fifty-foot long line.  A short reminder course lasting several days should sharpen up his recall.